When Antoni Gaudi graduated from Barcelona Architecture school the director who handed him his diploma said “we have given this academic title either to a fool or a genius.” When I see Gaudi’s work, I see genius…but many others see designs that are overly whimsical, too silly, or simply highly impractical and foolish. Wherever you fall on the “Genius-Fool” opinion spectrum you cannot deny that his work triggers a strong emotional reaction. In many ways our return to Barcelona was specifically a return to Gaudi, we wanted to spend more time examining his fascinating design work. In particular I wanted to photograph three buildings – Casa Batllo, Casa Mila, and Sagrada Familia. Unfortunately the hoards of people who swarm these buildings made quiet contemplation and photo planning a little challenging. We ended up spending almost an entire day at each location as we would have to (not so patiently) wait for rooms to empty out in order to get that very brief “perfect shot-no people” photo window.
Casa Batllo is one of our Gaudi favorites and is one of his most recognizable works. It is an example of Catalan Modernisme – which loosely translates into “Spanish version of Art Noveau.” Surprisingly, it’s a re-model. He took a perfectly normal middle-class 4-story building and turned it into “Casa Dels Ossos” (or “House of Bones” because the exterior looks skeletal, with skull-like balconies).
A few reference pictures to give you an idea of how unusual the building is.
Casa dels Ossos – Exterior (photo not mine)
Exterior Detail
Exterior Window “Knuckle” Detail
Roof “Spine” Detail – Casa Batllo (photo not mine)
As you can see, the house is composed of curves and organic references: spines, skulls, knuckles…bones. Inside the house the references become nautical…and by nautical I don’t mean “jaunty yacht.” The interior courtyard mimics being underwater and the paint and fixtures reference sea creatures.
Ceiling Detail and Fixture
Wall Sconce
Wall/Paint Detail
The interior courtyard is tiled with various shades of blue (darker to lighter to mimic descending and ascending ocean depths) and the stair and landing railing is iron and glass. The glass itself is not flat but is textured to heighten the interior “underwater” effect. None of these pictures has been altered, they’ve just been taken through the glass.
Courtyard Through Glass
Glass Detail
UNDERWATER WINDOW
One of the more extraordinary design elements of the building is the attic. Once again, natural elements are emphasized and there are many curves and few traditional “right angles.” The feel is of being inside a rib cage. Even though the attic only housed a laundry and servant’s quarters there was still enormous investment in design and detail.
Attic “Ribs”
Ceiling Detail
Attic Ceiling – Arch Detail
Attic Stairwell
Attic Stairwell Detail
Attic – Storage Room
I cannot imagine what it was like to live in Casa Batllo…or in any Gaudi designed building for that matter.
Imagine this as your living room window!
Casa Batllo – Living Room Window (photo not mine)
The curves and organic references create a very calm and inviting environment. There is a lot going on in this room but to me the space doesn’t seem cluttered or busy – and the same is true for all the rooms in Casa Batllo. Any visit to Barcelona should include a tour of one or more Gaudi-designed buildings. The unusual beauty has had a significant impact on our experience of Spain!
Two-Passports 
Wonderful! Trying to imagine the house with furniture….